Day 2 (July 13, 2017): A Dalmatian Gem

Zadar is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Croatia. It is situated on the Adriatic Sea, and serves as the seat of government for the region of Dalmatia. (No doubt you've heard of Dalmatian dogs? They originated in Dalmatia.)  The city was inhabited back as far as the Stone Age, and has changed hands, been burned and rebuilt more times than you can count.

 

So why are we in Zadar and not in one of the better-known Croatian cities? Several years ago, a guy from Zadar by the name of Ivan Dunic was working in Halifax and we become great friends. He raved about his town so much we just had to come see it. 

 

This morning, we got up at 8am, although that felt like 3am Halifax time, and got started on our day.  We had an excellent breakfast at a café in Petra Zorgnica Square, with the a-capella congregational singing of St Simeon's Church Mass wafting out the church door and over our omelettes.  Two-part harmony, even!  It was amazing congregational singing.  Not sure why there was Mass on Thursday morning, but it certainly started our day out on a great footing.

 

From breakfast, we set out to criss-cross and circumnavigate Zadar's Old Town peninsula for the next 12 hours.  There must be a church for every five residents!  I don't show them all below, but a good sampling is included.  The oldest dates back to the 9th century! So yes, Zadar is uber old!

 

The sun scorched its way to the mid-30s today.  So twice, we returned to the air-conditioning of our hotel room for respite and rest before setting out again.

 

At the recommendation of Ivan, lunch was had at the Five Wells Café.  Dinner was filled with Dalmatian ingredients at an outdoor café in the Old City.

 

The photos below show how the day unfolded apart from that.  By the time our weary feet made it back from the concert (see the very bottom photo), we had been totally smitten by this Dalmatian gem of a city.

 

Tomorrow holds a real surprise!  Yes, we are a bit nervous about it, but excited, too.  Stay tuned...

 

 

A picture = 1000 words, so this photo of Old Town Zadar will help you picture where we are and how big the Old Town is. (By the way, I could leave you to presume I hired a drone to take that aerial photo. But alas, I'll be honest and tell you I lifted it from the 'net.😱)

St. Simeon's Church (17th century) and Roman column

Bablja Kula lookout tower

The Five Wells

Zadar City Gate

 

City Walls designed to keep out many empires, including the Turks

The Church of St. Mary (11th century).

The circular Church of St. Donat from the 9th century, along with the bell tower of the Zadar Cathedral.

Interior of St. Donat

View from the bell tower of the Cathedral -- 180 steps in 35C heat... painful!

Zadar Cathedral of St. Anastasia (13th century)

Remains of the Roman Forum which, in Roman times, was the main square of the city.  As seen from the Cathedral bell tower.

The Church of Our Lady of Health (16th century).

In 2005, a 'sea organ' was built into the waterfront.  Under these steps are pipes that interact with the waves to produce organ-like sounds.  It is the most incredible thing!  The sea organ also provides the literal jumping off point for swimmers who routinely jump into the harbour for a dip.  The Adriatic's water is crystal clear.

Contemporary art installation, 'Salute to the Sun', on the Zadar waterfront.

 One of the beacon's of the harbour entrance.

 

Bell tower of the 13th century Franciscan Monastery, still serving as a monastery today.

Franciscan Monastery courtyard

Dinner consisted of a Dalmatian pizza, as well as a charcuterie board of Dalmatian meats, cheeses and olives.  Move over, Colonel Sanders!  REAL food has come to town!

St. Krsevan's Church

We crossed the bridge to Vostarnica (the other side of the harbour) to watch the sun go down.

Tonight was the first performance in Zadar's Summer Music Festival, featuring Symphony Orchestra of Croatian Radio-Television and four opera performers.  It was held outside at the Roman Forum.  A world-class operatic performance outside a 9th century church? It doesn't get any more magical than that, folks!